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Work-in-progress

Everything before it’s done.

Work-in-progress

Armada display board

I don’t recall what possessed me to start this project. Maybe it was buying tickets to Adepticon this March, in Chicago. Maybe it was when Armada local James suggested a “fleets on parade” event at the Vancouver Prime Armada event on January 18th. Who can say what madness came over me, but it did and now I must fulfill the desires of my muse to the end.

Design

I started with a piece of paper. Actually, I started with an idea, but since that part was a flash out of no where, the paper is the first actual action I took. Having done this kind of thing before, I knew you had to plan out where things would sit on the board, otherwise you end up with squished models, rather than an aesthetic layout.

It’s also important to know how many models should go on the board. I cheated a bit, because really I should be planning this for The One Fleet to Beat Them All, but since I have more hobby skills than flying skills, I’m still testing fleet ideas. So I drew out spaces for 5 ships and 8 squadrons, which is enough for most fleets I’ll fly. The only time I’ve done more than 5 ships, I hated the fleet — the ships were entirely to squishy for my style of play.

I secured an ISD from Facebook (thanks Alex!), pulled a piece of hardboard from my hobby area, took some ships from my case and put them down roughly where I had planned out on the paper. This gave me an idea of how big the board should be, and by luck it was almost right, just needed a little trim off one side.

Unfortunately, I recently had a purge of hobby materials and wasn’t sure I would have enough foam. I took out every piece I had and laid it out – it wasn’t enough. I started cutting things in half and creating angles and put it all out on the board and felt like I could make it work combined with some other materials.

At the end of this, I had some foam and an ISD placed (no glue!) on a piece of wood.

Gluing

Seen here – a bunch of heavy objects sitting on foam and white glue. I left for Christmas holidays shortly after this, so didn’t get to work on it for a bit.

Filler and Rocks and Sand and Attachment Points

I made a display board a while back for my Blood Bowl Undead team that had specific places for models, but usually my boards have just been open spaces. Because Armada uses many stands to hold floating space ships, I needed a solution to put them on the board. (also, in one of the previous Adepticon board posts, I claim I bought the Model Lite from Magic Box, great to know!)

For the squadrons, I drilled holes into coloured wooden sticks probably used for kids crafts and glued them into the board. For the ships, I got plasticard thick enough for the ship bases that FFG uses and dug out space for the stand to attach onto them. It all works pretty good, which you’ll see in a bit!

I used a wonderful product called Model Lite. I don’t recall where I got it from, because it was in my hobby stuff. It’s so light that when you pick up the little jar, it actually feels lighter than a jar of air should feel. You know, like you picked up a helium tank? (no? haven’t done any kids parties recently?) I filled gaps that seemed wrong and gave some texture to some flat places.

On top of that, using the idea that you go from “biggest to smallest” with your features, I glued some small pebbles, then some larger pieces of corkboard to it.

The little holes on the edge of the board were not my idea, they were a serendipitous thought from my 2.5 year old. I’ve been building this upstairs, rather than in my usual hobby area because it’s out of the usual path of traffic. My kid went up there without me knowing, and took the bottle of super glue and punched a lot of holes into the foam. I was mostly stunned because I didn’t think she came up there, and also because super glue+toddler == probable hospital trip that I narrowly avoided, but, ultimately, I like the holes.

Edges and Corners

I was pretty sure I’d never finished the edges of a display board before, opting instead to paint the edges, but the photos above from Adepticon 2014 appear to say otherwise.

I took some thinner plasticard and cut it up into rough sections for my edges, then cut it out to fit better. In hindsight, I should have left it really rough and then glued, because it was much easier to cut to fit once it was fully attached to the board.

I didn’t have a plan for the corners when I did this, and I kind of wish I had. As I was doing it, I started thinking about photo frames or I dunno, like something in the hardware store. When I asked in CHOP! chat, Patrick suggested that diorama builders he’d seen used filler on the edges and sanded it down after. You can see my attempt at that above – I’m reasonably happy with it, but I think that if I’d planned to do this from the beginning it would have been much nicer. You can see that one edge was a little to short, and another I didn’t cut entirely straight. I’m certain it won’t be noticeable later.

Then I used the Model Lite and filled in the corners on top. The white glue holding the edges didn’t survive this, so I super glued the corners down!

So Much Sand

Coming down to it. I bought some “fine ballast” from Central Hobbies, and mixed it with white glue and water. I haven’t done this in ages, preferring the oxide paste from ages ago. This was cheaper and more accessible, so here we are.

It’s kind of a “slurry” texture, applied with a very large and very old brush. One day this brush is going to kick the bucket, and I’m going to have to write an old friend I haven’t spoken to for years that our old brush finally died. This project was not the end of it.

I initially was going for 100% sand coverage, but the more I did it the more I felt like the natural texture of some of the cut foam edges were worth saving. I went for 100%+ coverage on top, creating mounds, but went light on the slopes. I’m torn between thinking I’ve ruined it, and thinking it doesn’t look good in the slightest. >.<

As I’ve probably mentioned in previous posts, you want 100% glue coverage here. The foam melts when you try to prime it with aerosol primer (which I will), and a good white glue layer protects it all. Heavily watered down, of course.

Ships!

Lastly, I put some ships on it to make sure it all still worked! I’m glad I did, because the centerpiece slot was (1) no longer sized to fit the base and (2) had to much sand around it to allow entry. I had to clear some stuff away and re-glue.

I also lost one of my squadron holes in all the sand. 😛 I found it again!

Tomorrow night I start priming, and then I have to find my airbrush paint and sort out my airbrush and and then dry brushing sand textures! I’m not sure about the ISD either, honestly. It’s a very expensive model glued to a lot of garbage, and I’m not sure I’ll be able to do as good as the stock paint job. >.< Painting ships is hard!

Work-in-progress

Hammerhead corvette (terror)

I’m not 100% convinced this is a good idea. I mean…the default paint job is probably better than whatever garbage I’ll put on it? There it is, compared to the Braha’tok which is a really bad paint job.

But then…is the Braha’tok bad because I’m bad, or because I used to large a paint brush, or because I’m not used to painting space ships, or because the Braha’tok model doesn’t have a lot of crisp detail?

I have fear.

Featured Images Work-in-progress

Necromunda – Ganger “Farok”

I thought I’d posted this conversion and set about writing about it in the past tense, when I found I couldn’t find an article to link to.

This is an Orlock model with a Genestealer Cultist shotgun on it. It fits really well, with only a lot of putty in his shoulder joint, and a little bit of putty in the hand/gun connection.

There’s a story. So I was agonizing about shotguns. My gang has 4 of them, and there are…zero on the Orlock sprue. Worse, the Forge World Orlock weapon expansion sets only have a single regular shotgun. Which is absolute garbage. So I did some research on third-party shotguns, decided I didn’t want to spend that much to ship a couple bits from Europe and tried to find someone to sell me the GSC bits.

Found a dude on Facebook, and he was hard to get ahold of after he’d said “yeah, I can trade those”. In fairness, he was just giving them to me, so he didn’t have a lot of incentive. But after I hadn’t heard from him after 2 messages I’d sent over 3 days, I figured he’d had enough of me. I bought some shotguns from Bitz of War, costing $10 in bits and $10 in shipping. Annoyed, I spread my annoyance to CHOP! chat enough that I think I annoyed everyone else too.

2 days later, Facebook guy contacts me, we set a time to meet and it works out.

The Bitz of War order still hasn’t arrived. >.>

This guy got the same paint job as the rest of the basic members of the gang.

I really like the scheme. It’s easy enough to paint and replicate, and it looks super nice with some good contrasting colours. It’s kind of a scheme I’ve wanted to do with my ancient Orlocks for a decade or more, but never wanted to strip them and repaint them.

And then a photo of the whole gang so far! I want the BoW order to come in so I can do another 3, and then I need to figure out what to do with the juve in my gang. So far I’m using an old Orlock juve model, but it looks weird. Stoked with how they are turning out!

Work-in-progress

Necromunda – A New Leader

I bought my Orlock leader Carapace armour so I wanted a new model to show that. I bought some of the Tempestus Scions because they are both cool looking, and available in store. (I hate going to the store and being unable to buy what I want…I don’t want to wait for my model impulse buys!). My leader has Marksman and Overseer, and I’m told that’s a combo leading him to sit in the back a bit, as opposed to the frontline fighter I was aiming for. I missed. Maybe next gang I’ll do better…

I did a little head swap, although the Scion heads are awesome, I wanted to set him firmly as a Necromunda model. Then I cut up one of the hot-shot lasguns in the kit, and a smaller bolt gun I had in my bitz box and put them together. Lastly I carefully sculpted a ratty cloak, rather than using the very official looking Scions backpack.

The result, pretty bad ass.

The head isn’t great, but I don’t know if there are any heads that would have looked great on this body — the armour is so big compared to the head. This head, with the crazy Bane-like mask looked less bad than others.

I’m still torn on his equipment loadout. Is a boltgun the best choice? He’s the only guy in the gang with WS 3+ and it seems a waste to have him in the back ranks shooting, particularly since Orlocks have Combat and Ferocity as their Primary skills. It doesn’t exactly scream “Craig, you’re making the best choices!!!”

 

 

Work-in-progress

40k – ‘naut checks

I decided to try to paint checks on my naut, to give it a little bit of style. I looked up a couple examples and went to town with masking.

I started by masking out some squares.

 

And then I hand painted the squares:

Fuuuuuckkkkk.

I decided to re-optimize my airbrush process, since I have some space upstairs I could do it in. I re-masked, but this time doing all of the checks at once.

And then bust out the airbrush with some GW White Scar and Golden Airbrush Medium.

Here’s the bad side. I didn’t fix it up before I airbrushed, so the fact that it looks a little like crap is acceptable. I didn’t want to paint blue over the white, since I didn’t want to layer it over something that would just be white again. In hindsight, an argument could be made to just airbrush the dark blue and start over.

Here’s the front, which does not have an excuse for looking crappy. 🙁

And the other side, which was the only side that ended up looking good. 🙁

I went back in with PP Exile Blue, which looked dark enough and hand painted some cover-up.

The “bad” side looks a little bit like ass. I’m hoping that with the weathering I’m going to do, that it’ll look ok in the end, but I layered the blue paint to thick and now it’s just not good. 🙁

Pretty unhappy, but at least with orks “bad paint job” can be a style. 🙁

Work-in-progress

Blood Bowl – Glart in progress

This model is so fucking rad.

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Some of the FW Blood Bowl models are hit or miss, so I’m super stoked to be able to support their continued creation of Blood Bowl content by buying Glart, my little Fatty McRatty!

Since I received him on the Friday before the tournament, I basically had 2 days to finish him. Add that I had family obligations on Saturday, subtract that I was sick on Friday, and I basically had just 1 day.

My skaven are all the same basic recipe, so it was nice to apply that here and have it work quickly and effectively. A quick 3 layer highlight, a quick 3-4 layer wash and glaze and he’s done! Here’s a mid-stage photo — I don’t have any finished photos yet because I scrambled to get him done and out the door before the event! I’ll be writing about the event very shortly, have a few photos and stories from it!

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Work-in-progress

Blood Bowl – The Replacement

It got weird.

I’m playing in FoodBowl this weekend. It was a great event last year, with some great custom made boards and some fun rules for charity. This year the organizer got rid of the “only 2 Stars” rules, so the field was open for craziness. You’ve already seen my Fezglitch and my Kreek. I ordered Glart at the end of September, knowing he’d be here before the event on November 5th.

On October 27th, a mere 8 days before the event, I gave up hope that Glart would arrive before FoodBowl and started a Stormfiend conversion. I didn’t even have an idea of what rules to use with it, I just knew that if I had a Stormfiend, I’d have something. I quickly secured a model and scrounged my bitz box for something to use as hands, because I didn’t want to use the Stormfiend guns and it had to be a conversion, otherwise it was just a Stormfiend on a tiny little base.

Enter: ancient Old One Eye claws.

When I worked at Park Royal GW I got part of a Tyranid army and I think it included an Old One Eye. I didn’t want to do the special character, so I put scything talons on the model and bitzed the claws. Here we are, like 15 years later and the claws are getting used. This is why we hoard bitz! And my wife keeps calling me a hoarder…

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My team has a little bit of size creep…my three rat ogre models.

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I took a bunch of photos, because I was thinking about it. First off, the shaded basecoat. It’s a pretty standard recipe for me at this point — Zamesi Desert mixed up with Dheneb Stone, Runefang Steel, Emperors Children mixed up with White, Steel Legion mixed up with Dheneb Stone. This is a super fast 3 layers, all that’s important is to stay within the lines and get a quick highlight up. If If go outside the lines in a big way, it’s hard to fix with just washes/glazes, but some messiness can be fixed.

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The next layer is also pretty quick. Sepia in most of the recesses of the skin and claws, and the “leather” items. Drakenhof Blue shade over the metal.

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Some changes of lighting can be attributed to a different time of day I was taking the photo, but I think this layer included Nuln Oil over the metal to darken it down in places. I mixed red glaze and blue wash to make a purple and painted that onto the lower sections of all of the skin tones, and under things. I like the purple as an “under” shadow colour.

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This is the start of the glazing of the claws. They are going red, and you can see the start of that here! I also did another layer of the purple over the skin to darken that more. The purple wash went over the pink cloth as well.

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Two more layers of red over the claws.

He’s pretty close to done at this point (November 3rd) which is great so I can have another model to play with in the tournament.

And then Glart shows up in the mail. 2 days before the event. >.>

You’ll see photos of him here shortly, because I am absolutely going to paint him before Sunday!!

 

 

Work-in-progress

40k – Orks – just orks

One of the goals of this blog was to help me keep track of how I painted my models over the years. I’m no good at colour matching the way Wappel does, and I do rely on a recipe even if it’s a little haphazard sometimes. I went back a long ways through my ork entries to find that I hadn’t logged how I painted orks, just orks. I remember it was something wacky and crazy like a dark green highlighted up with a brown to make them more foresty and less bright green.

At the same time, even if I had found it, my technique has changed wildly over the years and I’m not sure it’s a good idea to go back.

So I present to you, my “first time painting orks”. 😛

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GW Warboss Green highlighted up with a shitty drying Ushapti Bone. The nice thing about the semi-solid Ushapti is that I put a brick into the green, and then broke down a little more of the brick for each layer.

This is the shaded basecoat step, as I’ve been doing.

I’ve been putting off starting these two because I’ve been waiting for Glart to come in the mail and I didn’t want to start something and not finish it. Glart had been get his act in gear because I need him in 15 days and I want him painted! By the numbers, he should have been here sometime last week. This week he’d better be here!

Work-in-progress

Blood Bowl – Skaven – Kreek progress

Here’s a nice side-by-side to show you how my interpretation of Wappel’s shaded basecoat goes:

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The top photo is much to light, on purpose. It’s the same recipe as for this other Skaveny article I did a while back.

  • Skin is GW Zamesi Desert, mixed and highlighted up with GW Dheneb Stone
  • Base is Steel Legion Drab, mixed and highlighted up with GW Dheneb Stone
  • Chains are just Runefang Steel.

Then I let him sit on my desk for a while, because…well, just because the timing didn’t work out well.

In the second photo:

  • The base is GW Seraphim Sepia, pulled from the edges to the center, and deeper into the cracks of the cork layers. Then GW Drakenhof Nightshade in a thin layer underneath the model (as a shadow) and within the deepest cracks of the cork.
  • The chain I did a lazy wash of the Drakenhof and Nuln and some drybrushing with Runefang, but not in the order and I want to go back in with the Runefang.
  • The wraps are Sepia’d, then drybrushed up with Dheneb Stone
  • The loincloth is PP Cygnus Yellow, Sepia’d. I painted over the Steel Legion Drab I had here, as I want my Star Players to have the yellow compared to the pink on the regular team.

The skin is more complicated. I started with a layer of Sepia, wiping away the excess with a finger from the highest points on the model. Then I mixed GW Bloodletter (glaze) and Drakenhof 2:1 to make a semi-purple wash. I painted this in thin layers along the bottom of each “semi circle” in his muscles, and in the areas of shadow in his armpits and on his left side where the arm and his side are close to each other. I did this twice, and then finished with a thin layer of just the Drakenhof in the very deepest recesses. I did a quick drybrush with Dheneb Stone over the tips of the fur.

This is still just a work-in-progress post because I got pulled away by a baby, but he’s pretty close!

Work-in-progress

Blood Bowl – Skaven – Kreek the Verminator

Again, with Foodbowl coming up, I need more Skaven Star Players. I set out to find a conversion for Kreek, the Verminator. There are an awful lot of Rat Ogre models in the world, and 90% of them are not my cup of tea. Most of them look like they were sculpted in the 80s, which is not an aesthetic I like.

The good ones are: the 2 Island of Blood models, the Screaming Bell model, and the Stormfiend models. I’m already using one of the IoB models, the one that would be most appropriate for Kreek since his concept art in the book looks a little cybernetic. I didn’t want to use the other IoB ogre, just because I’m stubborn that way. I set out to find either the Bell ogre or 1 Stormfiend, because I didn’t want to buy a $80 box just for this model. A friend ended up selling me the Bell ogre, which is great because it’s a great model, but part of me think the Stormfiend would have been a better conversion (despite initially thinking the Bell ogre was better).

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I turned his head forward so he’s looking at his target, and put a ball on the end of the chain, and put the cork into his hand where the full model is gripping the Screaming Bell cart. This rat ogre has a Ball and Chain on the field, so he’s going to join my power lineup to beat the crap out of my opponents in Foodbowl!