I’ve join a builder/escalation league. Now I have a ton of models to paint. But it’s ok, because the plan is to use this army at Adepticon next year, for the team tournament and possibly more, depending on how I feel about it when I’m done.
However, the 500 points/month scale doesn’t work for either my schedule, or the quality of the paint scheme I’d like to put out. My plan has been to put 3 colours on each 500 point chunk each month so that I’m tournament legal, and then create buffers for myself along the way.
For the first 500, I’ve got 20 horrors, 3 flamers and a Herald of Tzeentch. My next 500 points has a Daemon Prince that just needs to be glued back together, put on a new base and then raised in quality (he doesn’t go in the final army) and 2 Beasts of Nurgle. Which means that I can spend the next month focusing on getting this bigger chunk of the army up to the standard I like.
Which means I spent the last month painting bases. (and all the other hobby shit I get up to.)
I didn’t like the final yellow of the test model, so I changed the rocks to red. I really like how this turned out – it’s a really strong contrast to the (currently) barely visible difference between the green and blue on the model itself. I tried to keep to the slate look for the top, but it was harder this time to get it to look slate, and not just like green rocks.
Here are some of the worst photos I’ve ever taken, of the current final product. The top photo is a little browner than the bases actually are, but the bottom photo is pretty representative. (I figured out how to make my phone-camera do white balance better…these were wicked orange at one point).
When I say something like “glazing watered” or “watered” for any of this, I mean that I took a small brush of that colour, mixed in 2 brushes of Acrylic Medium and then doused it with enough water that it ran around on my palette if I wasn’t careful. The idea is that when you put it on the model, there are spots of black, but that it’s mostly a darker transparent.
Red Rocks
The red rocks went something like this…
- Scab Red all over the place, make those rocks red.
- Watered Chaos Black, applied all over the place.
- Watered Rhinox Brown, applied all over the place but in particular into the recesses.
- Watered Charadon Granite. This was a good idea here, but a bad idea on the slate.
- Watered Stegadon Scale, mixed with some Chaos Black along the bottom half of the rocks. This isn’t enough to make them green, but gives the bottom rocks a colour similarity to the top.
At this point, the rocks are pretty dark.
- Less watered Scab Red to bring the highlights back in.
- Watered Blazing Orange on top of the red.
- Lamenters Yellow. I pulled this around a bit, trying to create lines of highlight.
The Lamenters dried shiny, I hate that. After I finished that, I did a really light and dusty drybrush of Codex Grey over it. Again, this is to try to create some similarity between the top slate and the bottom rocks. It also hid some of the shininess and lightened the red up a bit.
Slate
The slate started with Sotek Green and followed the same procedure as the test model. I think I may have just highlighted with Ushapti Bone though, which may be why these guys were more green and less grey…
- You have to go over this with a lot of watered Black. A lot. Put the paint on the top and then pull it towards the middle. Because most of the liquid you just applied is transparent, you can see the black bits and pull them where you want them to go.
- At one point I did a watered Charadon Granite, this was a really bad idea. Instead of the nice seafoam green, it became more Dark Angels Green, which was not at all the colour I wanted. Had to re-highlight with the Sotek+Ushapti. Don’t add anything resembling brown to this part of the model.
- Just keep painting black.
- I added some watered Codex Grey, but I just blacked over it again.
When I ran out of patience, I did a light dusting drybrush of the Codex Grey. I think this made a really awesome difference, but I’m slightly worried that all of my previous work has been hidden by it (really light dusting!)
Next Steps
Now I have some models to figure out. Also, Patrick will probably have some comments on the bases about something I should change. This Sunday is go time! We’re playing a ton of 500 point games, and we’ll be taking photos for the paint voting!
After that…we begin the next 500 points. 🙂
3 Comments
Kelly
August 26, 2013 at 4:42 pmThe best way to kill a shiny finish is to hand-brush some (slightly) thinned down Vallejo Matte Medium over the shiny areas. Let dry, and repeat. Testor’s Dullcote spray isn’t bad for this purpose, but it often doesn’t reach the deep crevasses of a model, and it certainly doesn’t kill shine as well as two good coats of brushed on Matte Medium.
Craig Fleming
August 27, 2013 at 9:56 amI’ve used the dullcote before for this, but at times I’ve found it has another downside – almost a frosted effect in some places. This is reduced by being more careful and only lightly dusting the model with it, but if there’s only a little bit of shine, I thought it was overkill.
I have the matte medium and I used it on my steg, but hadn’t though to thin it, or to repeat the application. Thanks!
Kelly
September 6, 2013 at 10:01 amAs with any spray sealer, only spray when it’s dry and not super cold
outside. Otherwise it’s best to spray in a garage (with the windows
open, of course). Shake can super liberally before-hand. And do it in
stages. One super light pass, let dry completely, then return for
another light pass. Overdoing it will also result in glossier finishes.
Actually, I’ve been looking around for a decent matt sealer than I
can run through my airbrush. I figure it would be safer to use on my
models on those really cold wet days we have in Vancouver on occasion.
I’ve already taken to using airbrush primer in my painting room when the
weather’s lousy outside. Perhaps I can do the same with sealer?