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Work-in-progress

Everything before it’s done.

Work-in-progress

Skorne – Paingiver Beast Handlers

These guys are the basis of most armies that I’ll be making with Skorne, so they were pretty high priority to get painted up. I kept thinking of taking photos mid-steps, but instead kept painting. It felt pretty good to finish them over the weekend, but now you only get 2 photos. 🙂

I started with white primer (thank heavens) and Basius bases.

The cloaks started with Bloodletter glaze, which is super orange. Then Secret Weapon Red Black, which wasn’t enough again. Then Seraphim Sepia. Then I realized what I wrote wrong when I wrote about Morghoul — I’d done another layer of Bloodletter. The thing about this second layer, is that because now it’s going over a brown, it tames out the orange and makes it RED, which is awesome and very satisfying to finally get to the colour you were hoping for. 🙂

The scarves/ribbons/whatever are Tallarn Sand, Seraphim Sepia, Tallarn, Ushapti. Before the Ushapti everything felt like it was melding together, as I had a bunch of pale orange/pale beige together. One downside of the white primer+glaze technique is that it does require a lot of faith in your layers, because before I near the final stages it’s all very pale and washed out.

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The metal was as I’ve done in previous Skorne models. And the bases were a modification of the Immortals — Abbadon Black watered down, drybrush Codex and Fortress, Guilliman Blue, I think some Secret Weapon Heavy Body Black, then some more drybrushing. The tracks were Tallarn, Sepia, Tallarn, and a drybrush of Ushapti.

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Super happy they’re done! Unfortunately, I still don’t have a 50 point army fully painted and I’m hoping to play in Foodmachine (which may have passed by the time you read this :)). Realistically I’ve got the Swordsmen and Arcuarii still to paint for 50 points (I keep wanting to write “50ss”…) full painted, which is 12 models in a week and a half, which isn’t going to happen.

Looking at War Room, if I painted the Bronzeback I would have 50 points with Morghoul fully painted. But it would not be a finely tuned list, and would probably frenzy almost every round due to Fury issues. BUT IT WOULD BE PAINTED!

 

Work-in-progress

Drone – The sound of little motors

I’m stuck right now because the PCB I bought doesn’t fit on my frame (round peg, square hole problem) so I ordered another one and am waiting for it to arrive (and my local postman is a fucking idiot who can’t figure out “16th floor” means “put it in the mail slot for 1600”). We decided to assemble the motor system so we could figure out what direction the props were spinning in — you need 2 to spin clockwise and the other 2 to spin counter-clockwise.

We soldered the ESC to the motor, plugged the receiver into the ESC, and used some alligator clips to connect the battery to the ESC. Then we turned on a transmitter for the first time! It was super exciting when, minutes later, we had a motor spinning!

 

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The problem was that the motors were (mostly) all spinning the same direction, which was bad because we thought we’d crossed enough wires to have half spin the other direction. We starred at them for a long while. Russ had 1 motor that was spinning counter-clockwise, and we couldn’t figure out how it was different from another one that was wired identically, but was spinning clockwise. Until I noticed that one of the two ESCs was upside down (it’s just a bundle of wires and micro-controller wrapped in black electrical tape…). Russ unsoldered it, and re-did it right side up and it spun counter-clockwise! He’d accidentally done one of his correctly!

Unfortunately, I’d accidentally done none of mine correctly, so I spent some time right it all.

Hoping my PCB comes in soon so I can assemble the brains of the copter!

 

(Using terms possibly wrong: every writer/blogger I read says “PCB” and I didn’t know what that stood for. It’s “printed circuit board”. Which is correct…but not nearly specific enough. In this context, the PCB is a “power distribution board” and should be initialismed “PDB”. But no one does, that I can see.)

Work-in-progress

Skorne – Immortals, pt 2

After Kelly commented that my Immortals looked ethereal like Return of the King, and some other dude said “they’re coming along!” I decided my Immortals apparently didn’t look finished. >.>

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I don’t want to pull out my camera setup without a big pile of models to photograph, so here they are again via phone-camera and desk lamp.

Seething Ginger (who is posting a lot about Zaal 2!) posted this art for Immortals with the UA that I had already half-way copied, so I finished the job. Burnished Gold on the edges, with Nuln Oil to calm the brightness down and to re-shade the recesses. Blood for the Blood God for a quick’n’dirty gem paint job. Much less ethereal, I think! Do you think? 🙂

Work-in-progress

Drone – Another Hobby

I like typing, and I hope you like reading, so I’m going to write a bit about a new hobby for the winter – First Person View drone racing.

The hobby, for me, starts a lot earlier than actually racing with actual FPV. About a month ago Russ asked if I wanted to get into this. The price seemed right (like all hobbies, the price was a lie), so why not. We started from this article, which outlines all of the things you need to build a really inexpensive drone from parts. Which is why I’m writing about it here, because it involves building things!

The price started at $250ish USD, as the article says. We got the parts shipped from Banggood, no problem. I told Russ that I needed to focus on the ring first, as without the ring my wedding was going to end up a disaster and that took priority! We got started on this while waiting for the ring investment to bake. 🙂

The article pretty much outlines the parts you start with, so go read it rather than me writing it all down in summary again.

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A pile of parts. My first task was to figure out what bits I needed first, and what I needed last, because I need to get this pile organized before I can start.

Russ and I set out the bits in a draft circuit, like this.

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The battery connects to the power distribution board (aka a PCB). The ESC (electronic speed control) connects to the PCB for power, and the flight controller for instructions. The ESC connects on the other side to the motor. The flight controller connects on the other side to the receiver, which gets instructions from the transmitter (not shown).

You need 1 battery, 1 PCB, 4 ESCs, 4 motors, 1 flight controller and 1 receiver. Oh, and a frame. And tools to put it all together.

We assembled and re-assembled the frame a few times. Because the base is made of 2 layers, sometimes I needed to get a screwdriver into that thin area between them, so I had to take it all apart again. It’s a lot of screws to take the base plate off!

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When we had our little panic moment with the ring, the drone was left like this. I’d screwed the flight controller into a little bed so it wasn’t directly touching the frame (something about vibration control) and had screwed one of the motors onto one of the legs.

I still need to figure out exactly where my PCB is going, because the more I look at it, the more it doesn’t fit at all in this frame. Some minor futzing around is necessary.

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Russ and I are each building our own planes, so by the time we’re done we’ll have one each to go fly around. 🙂

The last thing to mention, and the part about the price being a lie, is that I needed to buy a transmitter. So I could control the thing. Turns out the transmitter of best use was $170, and the receiver component was $70! Almost doubling the cost of the rest of the parts!

Building things is wicked fun! I’m stoked to sit and solder things together to build a little plane! 😀

 

Work-in-progress

Basius + Fixit Sculpting

I went in with a friend on the Basius Kickstarter a while back. I initially tried using Milliput with it, with very poor results. The Milliput was too flaky, and pulled apart when I pulled the pad off. It also got stuck in the crevasses, ripping out detail in the base I was making and obscuring detail for future bases.

I spoke with a bunch of my wargaming buddies, in particular one who has been championing the Basius all along, about what they were doing. First they recommended a product called Fixit which was said to be a superior sculpting medium. You can’t get it in Canada, so I had to get in with another friend who was doing an order, having it shipped to a post box in Blaine, then going down to pick it up. It worked out pretty good, but it’s an annoying set of steps in this “global” world.

The easier step was to pick up talcum powder to keep the bases from sticking.

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I think it worked out pretty good. The detail is excellent on the rough dirt. The railroad tracks are a little soft though, especially since I’ve been using actual model railroad to build bases previously, with great success.

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You have to put a good amount of clay on the base to make an imprint, and then you have to carve away the excess as it “squirts” out the sides. Have a lot of bases just hanging around, as you’ll be able to do more than you think you can.

One thing I’m not super happy about, and it could just be my choice in Basius — there’s very little thematic cohesion between the bases I’ve done. From the same pad I’ve made railroad, dirt, muck, tiled streets and combinations of the bunch. I just finished attaching them to some Beast Handlers, and while I’m sure it’ll look fine in the end after some painting that brings them together, right now I’m wondering why half the squad is standing in the muck and the other half is standing on tiled street!

I usually cut into my bases and then slot the models “tab” into the hole to provide extra strength. The Fixit once dried is really hard and I chipped it in some places while trying to do this. For the Beast Handlers, I ended up cutting them off their tabs and gluing them directly on top of the bases. Only time will tell if this was a good idea or not, after they’re transported from place to place for a while.

Work-in-progress

Hordes – Cyclops Savage – Think I’m done

The photo doesn’t look all that much different, but I think the light at my desk is being weird and overly orange.

Just a few simple things after the last post — hightlighted the tassles with some white to bring a non-orange/yellow into it, black lined the recesses that didn’t have enough contrast, more yellow on the banners to bring that star out a bit more.

But I think I’m done. They’re pretty same samey, but I think that in a crowd, with a variety of models and a different coloured terrain around that they’ll look pretty sharp!

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Work-in-progress

Blood Bowl – Human Basecoats

All of my human models, together in one photo. The guys with the green bases won’t be re-touched, although when you look closely at them they are definitely the victims of a pretty quick paint job. The guys with black bases are new, and I’m painting over another layer of paint (thankfully, just primer on half of them) so I don’t know if I’m going to get the same quality of paint job that I usually prefer.

It’s a pretty simple scheme of Mithril Silver, Mephiston Red and Alaitoc Blue.

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I have a Comixininos order on it’s way with another Blitzer (because you need 4) and 2 Star Players — a Helmut Wolf and a Griff Oberwald — to round out the team. Also have an Ogre Paymaster waiting for me at Hammertime Hobbies to be painted up!

I’m looking forward to playing a team that has actual expendable linemen in it! 😀

Work-in-progress

Hordes – Cyclops Savage – More paint!

I put another quick layer of glaze on the next morning. It was simple, just some Waywatcher Green on the base and armour, Guilliman Blue on the base and under areas. Then I went to work.

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After work I played a shit ton of Hearthstone. >.< But I finally beat Sapphiron on Heroic! Only Kel’thuzad left…

After I got sick of that, I put some more layers on. SW Amethyst in the recesses of the cloth. Drybrush up with Codex, Fortress and some Skull White on the base. Then some waaaaashes! Again, part of the reason I’m enjoying painting these guys is because I’m getting pretty good results quickly and effectively. Washes got a bad rep in some places, but at the end of the day “liquid skill” still looks damn good. I just can’t leave it as the end result! So here’s some Nuln Oil on the cloth and Seraphim Sepia on the armour. I love how it brings a ton of depth to the models which were previously very flat.

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I just noticed that I accidentally posted the first draft of these guys out of schedule, so it’s been about a month since you saw them. 😛

Work-in-progress

Ring – Finished!

After all the polishing, it was time to drill some holes into the ring to put gems into it.

First we did some practice, as this was apparently a technique that Russ hadn’t done before (and obviously, neither had I!). It’s called a “star setting”, and it involves “bending” the metal in the corners of the gem over the gem so that it holds it in.

We started by drilling a hole smaller than the gem, so that it had a place to sit. Then we used a hart burr to create an angled shelf. Place the gem in the hole. Then use a graver to “dig” into the metal and effectively knife into it, and press up to take that little sliver of metal you’ve gouged out with the graver and bend it over the gem. Repeat 4 times for each gem to hold the corners on. He has another tool he uses to turn the sliver of metal into a little bead so it looks nice.

Here are some photos of the practice.

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After some practice, it was time to do it for real. Russ did all of this, possibly because a failure at this point would mean going back to the entire beginning, and it was fiddly work. 🙂

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Our original design had 4 gems, but at the end of this process I hadn’t given Russ enough space to set 4 gems, so we went with 2 of them. And here it is!

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It looks odd because it’s been designed to nestle into the existing engagement ring, and it looks amazing when put together!

Work-in-progress

Cyclops Savage – Getting there

After the Seraphim Sepia and Nuln oil layer, it was time to add some colour and contrast back in. I started with a simple highlight of Mithril Silver over the gold edges and the models immediately popped a lot more.

I took some Amethyst to the undersides of things, and again in the recesses to try to keep some interest there.

The banners and fabric had a couple layers of Bloodletter glaze applied, in striped patterns on the banner and on the raised areas on the cloth. The banners I went over again with Lamenters Yellow glaze to start a star pattern, then did some more opaque layers with Vallejo Moon Yellow.

The sword was annoying, because I wanted it “bronze” but a different colour from the rest of the armour. I started by wet brushing with Mithril Silver with the edge, the tip pointing towards the edge of the blade. This looked like ass, so I tried to make some “distressed” areas by using Bloodletter and Amethyst, but that didn’t help. I used Blood for the Blood God, smearing it around to cover up some of the bad areas. Lastly, I stippled on Mournfang Brown and then wiped it away/around with a finger and I think they have enough going on to be interesting, and not terrible.

 

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