All Posts By

Craig

Featured Images

Arcanists – Arcane Effigy

This guy has a hell of a story, starting more than a year ago, and I finally found my love of him. Starting from this great source, and ending with me re-buying the model so that I could get his book.

I really love the subtle contrast between the brighter blue “orb” lower body and the dark dark blue jacket, and the much greater contrast between all the blue, and all the different yellows. The browns are more yellow than orange or red, the candles are yellow and it’s great.

Disappointed that the top photo has such poor lighting on the right side, but the bottom photo is much nicer. 🙂

P1290829 P1290830

 

I got home from Japan late last night, and I’m sure you can read all about my trip on my other blog. 😛

Featured Images

Arcanists – Children of December Final

And here’s the whole crew!

 

Without a wendigo…not a fan of the model, and I think it’s even worse in translucent blue. >.>

Same paint scheme as for the Ice Golem, just without the LED in their torsos. 🙂 I thought about painting Rasputina like how I painted Tara, but decided I was pretty happy with leaving her blue.

P1290836

Work-in-progress

Terrain – Burn in Designs Flat Wagon

More terrain! I figured my little town could use a wagon…or two.

wpid-imag1176.jpg

There are no assembly instructions for these guys, so it’s a guessing game of figuring out what goes where. It’s ok for the most part, except when you think the yoke is an axel.

wpid-imag1175.jpg

I figure it out eventually. 😛

Work-in-progress

Terrain – Some test paints

I decided to do some test painting on some of the scatter terrain before I got to any of the big pieces. I picked up some water-based stain product at Canadian Tire that I hoped would do part of the process for me.

wpid-imag1212.jpg

 

I’m not certain about this stuff. Not because it isn’t effective, but because it kind of just looks like brown acrylic paint put into a bottle labelled “stain”. I have “Dark Walnut” and “Cognac” colours, because I wanted a variety to try.

The directions recommend applying with a sponge, then wiping off the excess – as with our paints, they are formulated to dry as-is, so if you don’t wipe off the excess you’ll get chunky bits left over. Here are 4 different test processes:

wpid-wp-1427728188324.jpg

From left to right:

  1. Dark Walnut, then drybrush Snakebite Leather, then drybrush Vomit Brown.
  2. Cognac, then wash Seraphim Sepia, then drybrush Zamesi Desert. I had to use my finger to wipe some of the Zamesi off as it was a little moist for drybrushing. Then drybrush Vomit Brown.
  3. Dark Walnut, then drybrush Mournfang Brown, then drybrush Tallarn Sand.
  4. Cognac, then drybrush Vomit Brown.

So far #4, the far right, is winning in both looks and in ease of process. I sent this photo to some local friends and they preferred the ones done with the Cognac, so I’ve painted my entire scatter set in Cognac and now just have to drybrush the Vomit all over.

When it comes to the bigger buildings, I might try a variety of processes. Also, because these are water-based I may be able to mix with my acrylics anyway – maybe get some greyer wood, or redder wood etc.

Photography

Analyzing lens choices for conventions and tournaments

I’m flying to Japan today, so everything you read after this has been long since scheduled! Before I left had a look at some different lenses. Two I had my eye on were $100-250 cheaper there than even online, so I had to see if I actually wanted them!

One of them is the Panasonic 20mm f/1.7 II. The Mark I version has been consistently said to be one of the best lenses of the m4/3 line-up, so I’ve fought with buying it for a while. The Mark II version isn’t much different, but has new colours. 😛

The primary use of a new lens would be walking around conventions and tournaments. I have a macro lens that I like (although it needs cleaning), but it’s so slow to focus that it’s time consuming walking around. I ended up settling on the less prestigious Panasonic 14mm f/2.5 lens. It’s easy to carry, has a reasonable minimum focus length and reasonable speed.

I also have a lens that I used to love, but which I’m falling out of love with. The Leica 25mm f/1.4 has great qualities, but it’s not wide or telephoto, it’s minimum distance is difficult to work with, and it’s noticeably larger than the 14mm.

So I pulled out my camera, a tripod and a Dreadball rat to take some photos! I also took photos with my phone, of the setup so we could get a sense of how far away tournament armies can be for focusing. I set the camera as close as possible to the model, so these are the minimum focus distances.

Olympus 35mm f/3.5 Macro

This one is fun. I think this one could have gone closer, but there’s not usually any reason to in my photography.

This photo also had a 25 second exposure time at f/22 – be sure to use a tripod! (although I also hadn’t set up my studio lights, which usually help out a lot).

wpid-imag1215.jpg

P1290846

Mold lines!! >.<

Leica Summilux 25mm f/1.4

The stated minimum focus distance of this lens is 12″, which is not nearly close enough. So even though the lens has pretty good telephoto compared to the 14mm (in a moment), and it’s excellent for taking photos indoors, it’s not good for these purposes.

wpid-imag1216.jpg

P1290847

Rat is to far away.

At home I set my camera to f/22 for a few reasons – I don’t need to blur the background, lenses tend to have better image quality well above their minimum aperture, and when I take photos of armies or crews I need some extra depth of field to get it all in.

But one interesting thing is that because it increases the depth of field, I can focus about 5″ behind the rat and still have the model in focus. Not a thing that I can do at conventions, because it also means that I need to bring the shutter speed way down to compensate. Still neat. 🙂

wpid-imag1219.jpg

I probably needed to pull the camera back another inch.

P1290852

Here’s a photo of the camera LCD – it was that blurry when I took the photo above.

wpid-imag1220.jpg

Lumix 14mm f/2.5

This is the one I use these days around conventions. I did the trick above for this first photo – again, not possible while walking around.

wpid-imag1217.jpg P1290849

And finally, here’s a photo that might actually be taken.  It’s at the minimum distance, so I can set the aperture appropriately for indoor settings, and the shutter speed for hand-held shots, and this is the kind of photo I’ll get.

wpid-imag1218.jpg P1290850

It’s a lot “closer” than in the 25mm lens, which is good for individual models. And because it’s a wide 14mm, I can back up and fit an army into the frame.

So what now?

So now that I’ve taken all of these photos, the question goes back to – is the 20mm a good buy?

The 20mm would bring that last photo closer, which would allow more detailed photos of individual models. But it would also make it harder to take photos of entire armies. I feel like some of my photos of individual models aren’t great, and that the details get lost in the background.

The f/1.7 would give more speed for taking indoor photos, which is just a win. Also it would allow for better bokeh, bringing the focal point forward more.

Apparently the auto-focus on the 20mm is a little slow and it costs $300. But I could still carry the 14mm around if the 20mm doesn’t work for armies, since the 14mm is pretty small.

Work-in-progress

Terrain – Burn in Designs Gallows

Some more of the Burn in Designs stuff. This was the first item I built, but posted the Windmill because I wanted help with it. 😛 I definitely needed more “little things” to go in the middle of my table – lots of buildings and such, but something you just need a little thing to walk around.

wpid-imag1174.jpg

Work-in-progress

Ring making – Final?

(Because of the schedule, it looks like I wrote “Next steps” 3 days ago, but it was a month or so ago, and now this “final” post fixes some of the next steps…and adds a bunch of story.)

After I had set the 5mm garnet, I had immediately set out to find a 5mm ruby so I could get the right gem in there! I looked at a lot of rubies and learned a lot about them…I learned also that they range in price from $3,000 to $200, and forgive me, but I bought the $200 kind.

The reasoning given to me was thus: I am not a gem appraiser, nor is anyone I know, nor is anyone involved in this process about to go and have the gem appraised, or try to sell this ring in 30 years. It has no fungible value, it has only emotional value (and it has a shit ton of that!). So spend the kind of money that makes you happy, and be happy with it.

The gem had an interesting life, which I won’t recount in full here. It spent 4 weeks on a boat, then a week getting here, and then 2 bloody weeks bouncing around Vancouver. I called Canada Post almost every day, trying to figure out who “Colin” was who had signed for my gem.

It finally arrived the day I spent working from home because I wasn’t feeling great. Because of a surprise cancellation the next day, I got together with Russ and finally set this gorgeous stone!

wpid-imag1193.jpg

Russ, fixing the little divot at the top. Using a mini torch and silver solder to fill the hole. After this, I spent some time filing, then sandpapering, then polishing. I couldn’t quite get an angle out, so Russ helped out and I took a photo of him doing it.

wpid-imag1195.jpg

His Foreman brand circular tool (“Dremel” to me…) with a polishing bit on the end and that damn jewelers rouge.

wpid-imag1197.jpg

We fixed the divot, he set the stone and polished the hell out of the top of the setting so it was super nice and shiny.

I think that’s the end of my story for this project! This gem is a little deep so we might have to figure out how to smooth out the bottom. We’re busily planning the wedding, making Save the Date cards, guest lists, booking the venue and a caterer and all that jazz. It’s pretty fun stuff right now!

 

Work-in-progress

Ring making – next steps

No photos here, as we haven’t done it yet!

The problem with doing it yourself, is that when it comes down to the tiny little details after you’ve “finished”, they’re your details to finish! Here’s a short list of what I see…and I think Russ has another short list, as he sees things that I don’t!

  • Obviously, the stone is wrong. I have a 5mm ruby on order that’s apparently going to be here between March 3rd and 10th. That’s dealt with, and we’re just waiting.
  • Then we have to pull the garnet out. Russ says this is easy, and I’m sure it is, but…
  • Then we have to “undo” the setting? We folded the silver over on top to keep the garnet in. We have to …unfold it? Sounds awful.
  • Put the ruby in, re-fold.
  • There’s a small notch on one side of the band near the setting that I want to fill, re-file and re-polish.
  • On the very top of the setting, it looks a little rough in spots. I think because we folded it over, and it…squished? I don’t even know. but once the ruby is in, I think it needs more filing and polishing.
  • Miranda says it might need to be a little smaller. We’ll see.

And that’s on top of her thinking we should make our wedding bands, and on top of actual wedding plans!

This has been an incredible experience, and I’m blessed to have such a friend that could allow me to have it!