40k – ‘naut checks

I decided to try to paint checks on my naut, to give it a little bit of style. I looked up a couple examples and went to town with masking.

I started by masking out some squares.

 

And then I hand painted the squares:

Fuuuuuckkkkk.

I decided to re-optimize my airbrush process, since I have some space upstairs I could do it in. I re-masked, but this time doing all of the checks at once.

And then bust out the airbrush with some GW White Scar and Golden Airbrush Medium.

Here’s the bad side. I didn’t fix it up before I airbrushed, so the fact that it looks a little like crap is acceptable. I didn’t want to paint blue over the white, since I didn’t want to layer it over something that would just be white again. In hindsight, an argument could be made to just airbrush the dark blue and start over.

Here’s the front, which does not have an excuse for looking crappy. 🙁

And the other side, which was the only side that ended up looking good. 🙁

I went back in with PP Exile Blue, which looked dark enough and hand painted some cover-up.

The “bad” side looks a little bit like ass. I’m hoping that with the weathering I’m going to do, that it’ll look ok in the end, but I layered the blue paint to thick and now it’s just not good. 🙁

Pretty unhappy, but at least with orks “bad paint job” can be a style. 🙁

40k – Orks – just orks

One of the goals of this blog was to help me keep track of how I painted my models over the years. I’m no good at colour matching the way Wappel does, and I do rely on a recipe even if it’s a little haphazard sometimes. I went back a long ways through my ork entries to find that I hadn’t logged how I painted orks, just orks. I remember it was something wacky and crazy like a dark green highlighted up with a brown to make them more foresty and less bright green.

At the same time, even if I had found it, my technique has changed wildly over the years and I’m not sure it’s a good idea to go back.

So I present to you, my “first time painting orks”. 😛

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GW Warboss Green highlighted up with a shitty drying Ushapti Bone. The nice thing about the semi-solid Ushapti is that I put a brick into the green, and then broke down a little more of the brick for each layer.

This is the shaded basecoat step, as I’ve been doing.

I’ve been putting off starting these two because I’ve been waiting for Glart to come in the mail and I didn’t want to start something and not finish it. Glart had been get his act in gear because I need him in 15 days and I want him painted! By the numbers, he should have been here sometime last week. This week he’d better be here!

40k – Orks – Gorkamorkanaut, just the arm

I finished the arm, because I wanted to be inspired enough to finish the whole model, and the whole model is rather intimidating in it’s largeness, given that I’ve barely been able to find time to paint single models for a bit. The arm turned out amazing!

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The airbrush is magic, because everything else on this thing is super simple once I got it right.

  • The cables are GW Blazing Orange. Then they are GW Troll-slayer Orange, which is very similar, but has the property of being available where the latter does not (I ran out). A little sepia, a little highlighting up and I have nice neon cables.
  • The metal is just GW Mithril Silver (and again, GW Runefang Steel because I ran out…), Sepia’d all over, then Nuln’d in the recesses and then Nuln’d again where I wanted more contrast.
  • The blue is, obviously, airbrushed, and then a little Nuln in the recesses to deepen those, and I sponged on Runefang along a few edges and then…

WABAM, all done. Awesome looking arm. So easy!

Orks – Gorkamorkanaut

I went from 0 painting projects to 5 on my desk, within the span of a week. I played a game of 40k, which inspired me to work on some killa kans I found in my bitz box. I also assembled 10 grots to fill the 3-Troop minimum I needed for the army.

But then I realized I should finish what I started — the gorkamorknaut has been looming in my ork case for a year and a half. After last we saw this model, I painted it a watered down silver, blue and orange and then had a game with it and realized it was shit, and looked like shit and left it alone for a long time. With 8th ed out, Orks are in a great place and this guy is looking awesome and feeling awesome and deserves some more love. Here’s a photo of where I left it.

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I sent that photo to Clayton, who suggested I pull out my airbrush and do it in similar colours to the rest of my ork army, which meant a lot less silver. And since I moved, airbrushing is a lot easier — I have a deck I can do it on, instead of needing to pull everything down into the apartment parking lot and being super awkward and cold. I promptly masked a bunch of stuff, pulled out my blues and went to town!

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After I was done, I was feeling pretty good about the whole process. Airbrushing isn’t as difficult as I think it is! I can do this!

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…why the fuck is this piece highlighted upside down?!?!! 🙁 🙁 🙁 With the masking tape on, I had mistaken bottom for top and this is where I got. I pulled all the airbrush stuff out again after work and tried to fix it. Unfortunately, because it was a little cold and because I only had the one piece to paint, the paint wasn’t drying as quickly as my patience needed it to, and so I ended up with this strange speckled pattern from paint being blown around. I thought it looked kind of cool…and then I tried to put another layer over it which gave the arm almost a complete sharp edge where I’d previously had a speckled gradient. God damnit. I put the piece down, hoping it wasn’t as bad as it looked, and put my stuff away and went to bed.

Woke up early this morning, looked at the arm and no, it looked like shit. Baby was still sleeping, which was odd, but fortunate so I pulled all the airbrush stuff out again and repainted the arm a third time. I started to worry that it was getting to thick in layers, but I think I’d rather to thick than shittily highlighted!

Here’s a photo of all of the pieces all done, with the masking tape still on the arm, and it is properly highlighted.

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I did a quick sepia wash on the klaw arm and edge highlighted the head to see how I liked it, then put it all together to check it out. Looking good!

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Funny story about the kustom force field — somewhere inside the naut is a magnet that the KFF sticks to. I can’t find or figure out where I glued that magnet so that the KFF would stand on the outside! (just realized my old photos from a year ago show where it goes :P)

Looking forward to finishing this guy! (but a couple other projects have priority, for reasons you’ll see)

Shadow War: Armageddon…Orks???

It got weird. GW is doing things that make sense. Like communicating with their customers and selling things that people have claimed they want to buy for years.

I’m torn about the release of Shadow War. On the one hand, more excitement about a Necromunda-based ruleset is good. On the other hand, GW has yet to prove to me that they haven’t forgotten how to write an army list that could be considered close to balanced with its peers.

My local group has decided, under the tyrannical rule of Mr. Nick, to play Shadow War: 30k rather than Shadow War: Armageddon when it’s released. I’ve been told that Orks don’t exist in 30k, which is why I don’t play 30k. But Nick took pity on me and let Orks into the club. Then, in a totally unrelated conversation I linked a photo of a gangsta with his arms crossed, and then this sprang into my brain:

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Uhh…or something similar to it that I would be incapable of puttying. But this is the most amount of putty I’ve put onto a model in a long while, and I’m not displeased with it. I sculpted an entire ork arm once upon a time, so I figured I could do it again. Putty is an 8 headed hydra, always snipping at your left while you focus on the right. I prefer the regular sort of ork conversions, where you kitbash something until it looks awesome.

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The left shoulder in particular pissed me right off. Nothing I did could make it look good, until I finally got it good enough and then I fucked it up again. I considered tossing a pauldron over it, but that would be cowardice, both for me and for my waaaaghlife thug who just needs his guns and his shades to protect him.

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If Shadow War turns out to be a terrible game, at least I got one more ork boy out of the exercise. 🙂

WAAAGH??

This is an intimidating project. I don’t truly know where to start with it. But I think probably it’s a lot of silver and blue.

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WAAAGH – ‘Naut …done building?

I’m not 100% on being finished. I look at certain other members of my community who have built entirely new things with a ton of crazy gubbins. I just put tracks on the standard ‘naut, and sure it was a lot of work and a cool conversion, but the top part of this model is just stock.

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Any thoughts?

WAAAGH – MEK GUNS

Super happy with these! I wrote about the carriages and grots previously, so just the guns here.

I started with Vallejo Fluorescent Yellow inside the recesses where I wanted the energy coming from. My goal was to keep these areas yellow through the whole process. It mostly worked, except for the round balls on the right and the tips, which I had to go over a lot again at the end.

Mithril Silver pretty much all over, leaving the cables and that center red housing. Silver everywhere is boring, but after a sloppy application of SW Amethyst and GW Seraphim Sepia to make some colour and distressing, the silver is pretty awesome!

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I had to go back with the Vallejo Yellow a fair amount. I did White in the recesses, then Yellow, then drybrushed the Yellow out of the recesses, then mixed the White with the Yellow to go in again. I don’t feel like I got that “pulsing glow” look, but it’s pretty bright looking. Not certain what else to do to get the glowing look, but I think it has to do with a smaller paintbrush and painting more gradients inside the coil area.

Everything else was pretty easy. SW Soft Body Black to get the really deep recesses. Mephiston Red in the center — I didn’t even do anything else here, just the slop-over from the Amethyst and Sepia made it look good. Blazing Orange+Sepia on the cables, Steel Legion Drab+Sepia+Ushapti Bone on the cable wraps.

Oh, and Blood for the Blood God on the sights. It’s an easy “glassy lens” look. 🙂

WAAAGH – ‘Naut Shims

Didn’t have much time last night, so I just did some shims. The nice thing about this approach is a few things: I create a nice smooth surface to decorate (rather than cut-up Rhino innards), and I can check the fit on both sides of the shim to ensure it works. A problem I was having with the Rhino treads as-is was that I was never certain how much coverage (for gluing) I was getting — every time I went to check, the tread moved a bit!

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I’m going to need to do a lot of gap filling. Both of these models were built by other people, and those people didn’t take as much care with good fittings as I would have preferred. Anyone have good materials for filling gaps? My go-to is green stuff, but the way I use it tends to create rounded pieces rather than straight-across pieces. Maybe I just need to overfill and file back.

WAAAGH – ‘Naut in half

I love this part of modelling – the fast and furious slicing and dicing of $50 models! I grabbed a Rhino from my bitz box (I have spares in case of Ork conversions!) and a hack saw and cut it in half.

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I hadn’t built the start of the ‘naut (I received it from a friend), so I had to pull the legs off rather than just not gluing them. I cut back the Rhino halves until they were just track, and then cut up the “equipment case” in the back of them so they would sit flatter, and then cut up just in front of the middle so that the ‘naut doors would still open properly.

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I wasn’t super happy with the “closed” look when I was done last night, but when I looked at it this morning I’m pretty stoked!

I think I’m going to get some plasticard glued to the back of the track portions so that I can try to create a flat gluing surface. There’s so much texture on the ‘naut, and so many recessed panels on the inside of the Rhino that I think any glue-job I did that didn’t include a lot of plasticard shims would fall off very quickly.