Dreadball Base Coats

As no one provided any suggestions on what colours to use on my two Dreadball teams, I decided that bright green and bright blue were the right choices.




Kidding. (Although I would have loved some feedback…sometimes a guy just wants to know that people are reading!) Mr. Wappel writes about how he does his basecoat in really bright colours, because he shades the colour down afterwards. I thought I’d try that on these models. So I primed them all white, and then did an airbrushed basecoat of Goblin Green and Meredius Blue.

I’m planning on focusing on the human team first. Think I’ll water down the Dark Angels Green and see where I end up. Nice thing about these models – they are all armor. No silly straps or faces to get in the way.

Second tank weathered – process refined

The first tank was a frenzy of trying techniques out – a slap-dash variety of colours and layers of the dry pigments, maybe a dullcoat layer, some blotted paint, another layer of blotted paint, an attempt at rusting that still needs to be fixed. I require order, and so this was the first tank to attempt to bring the process into something manageable.

The tank body itself got 4 dry pigment layers in total. Dark Earth on all of the sides, and high up. Green Earth slightly less high up. Dark Yellow slightly less high up, and then one more Dark Yellow to fill in where it wasn’t bright enough. Then I did a dullcoat layer – the idea of this was to “matte out” the ugly splotch lines of the pigment fixer, and it worked great! Lastly I did a single layer of blotted Codex Grey with a piece of foam. On the previous tank I felt that a layer of Fortress Grey made it to bright, so I took that out.

A few other odds and ends: two layers of rust dry pigments on all of the metal bits, black exhaust from the exhaust vents, and a few carefully lined places of pure Mithril Silver where the vehicle occupants would have had some recent use of it.

There are a few things I don’t like about this tank, which I hope to fix in the next iteration. I’d love to hear about if you don’t mind these things, and if you think anything else could fix a fix.

  • The yellow is only really intense on the underside of the armor plates. Is that really realistic?
  • The Dark and Green Earth is really really super faint and needs more strength to it.
  • The front plate, I blotted a bit to high up.
  • Don’t take photos on a reflective surface…I just put that glass in the table the other day and forgot. 😛
  • If I’m going to take a straight-on photo, make sure the tank is straight. If I’m taking a diagonal photo, make sure the tank is diagonal. That last photo is just irritating me. 😛

Derrick mentioned that the grey/yellow dirt thing didn’t look right, but honestly I’m really liking it. I’m thinking it’s ancient dirt from an ancient world, and new dirt from the new world (all of my Ork bases are grey). He thought that was to much explanation, that I should keep it simple. Problem is…I think it’s a great looking contrast. 🙂 What do you think?

And since my Dukie requested full-on photos, I have a few full-model photos in addition to the macro shots I’ve been taking recently. 🙂

Thanks for reading!

First weathered tank finished

I’ve “finished” weathering my first tank. It’ll probably never actually be done, and the goblins on top need a little bit more love before I’ll be really happy with it, but I’m happy with the end result of the weathering job.

I believe that the last time I left photos, I wasn’t pleased with how the dry pigments were working out. I fixed that in a really simple way – add more weathering, of a different sort. I took foam bits and splattered on a gray colour, and I think it looks pretty sharp.

What do you think?

Weathering tanks 1 – dry pigments+dullcoat

This will probably be a lengthy series, since I’m only just starting and I’ve got a lot of tanks that need a little touch-up. By “touch-up” I mean, making them look like someone has beaten the everliving shit out of them.

A quick update today showing what happened when I put a yellow earth pigment on and then just dullcoated over top of it.

It looks like the dullcoat spritz put dots in the pigments. I think I like it here, but on the tank sides it isn’t so great.

So I’m fixing it…by adding more paint! More photos later. 🙂

Masterclass Painting 2 – Day 1

This weekend of Masterclass Painting is about vehicles. We’re painting a Dark Eldar Helion glider thing (no rider). This morning started at 9am, and we immediately got into base coating, shading and highlighting this model. We had lunch in the middle and at about 1pm we got into the meat of the new material – various weathering techniques. After dinner we talked about airbrushing for a few hours and then ended the evening, exhausted, at 9pm.

Tomorrow we start again at 9am and I think we’re going to get into basing. But for now, hit the jump and we’ll take a look at some of what we did today!

Continue reading Masterclass Painting 2 – Day 1

Terrain: Orky Lander 1

I’ve been thinking about this blog since I got my new camera. One of the things I wanted when I started it, was to purchase a macro lens so I could take some better close-up model photos. I still don’t have the macro, but I do have some models…

I’ve been working on a piece of terrain. Started with a piece of “hardboard”/MDF and used my Dremel to cut it out to shape. Glued down a piece of construction foam to serve as a core. Added wood filler, hot glue, and plasticard to create the shape you see below. Then a few select pieces from my never-shrinking box of bitz, and voila, you have something that resembles a crashed Ork lander.

Painting started with a drybrush Codex Gray+Fortress Gray. They’re my Ork base colours. Regal Blue on the Space Marine tank parts (again, to match my army). Then…I got an airbrush. And started to use it :P. Airbrushed on the metal, then a couple layers of different grays, then the black.

A few things I’m not happy about right now: the black isn’t scorched enough, the hot glue needs to be something, and the entire piece is really just a big gray lump on the table, and the lighting of my photography…

Ah well. Better than nothing, right? 🙂

Ork Battlewagon 3

A quick priming and we’re ready to put some paint on this thing.

I think I regret doing this now, but first I dry brushed the entire thing Boltgun Metal. It’s been my standby metal dry brushing for years, and it’s only after reading that Battlewagon guide I posted last post that I realized there were other options. Talk about a mindset. I’ve got plans to offset the boring nature of this though, so not all is lost.

Regal Blue is the base coat for all of my Rhinos, so that went on here as well. I usually do two watered down coats of the Regal, to prevent paint clumping since I’m applying vast quantities of it all at once.

That’s the update for today – later!

Deth Koptas 1

This is another “oh, I’m mostly done” sort of post. I promise this is the last one – I’ve run out of projects that I’ve been meaning to finish! Everything from here on will be from the start (except for my battlewagon…which is partly assembled)

Paint Scheme

  • Bloooooo. These guys follow my Ork vehicle paint scheme of Regal Blue base, Space Marine Blue highlight. It’s a Space Marine theme’d Ork army.
  • The metal is just Boltgun Metal with a Chaos Black wash (remember, my Badab fails).


  • I was trying for a long while before assembling them to figure out some awesome conversion I could do. In the end, I just added some extra metal plates and called it a day. They are like…6 piece models, almost snap together, and there wasn’t a lot of room for cutting and pasting.

I’m honestly not to certain where I need to go from here. It looks like there are a lot of little details on the models that need finishing – the straps on their hats, a highlight on the green meters, some extra colour on some of the little knick-knacks around the model. Little things.

Then the bases. Need a little bit of flock, since that’s the thing I’m doing for the Orks.

Lastly, the rotor blades need some colour. Likely a blue colour. I could also do that yellow/black hazard striping, since I put that on some of my vehicles as a strong contrasting colour, to ensure that they weren’t entirely blue. Slightly unnecessary here, as the orks themselves (and the large amount of metal) keep it from being a sea of blue, but it is nice to be consistent.

Ork Flash Git

I didn’t paint this one, but I wanted to share it and it’s tale anyway.

There was an auction at my local Games Workshop a couple weeks ago, along with some mini-games for prizes. They had as prizes some mail-order only models, and I knew there were about three things I wanted as prizes so I went down to see if I couldn’t make it happen.

I lost every single game. Poop.

Towards the end of the day, one of the local kids won a game and upon looking through the box of prizes realized that there was nothing he wanted. I was standing around and he asked if there was anything I wanted, and I sort of sputtered out “Oh yes!” and picked out the Ork Flash Git. I’m amazed – I’ve been known to give prizes that I don’t care about to kids, but that’s because I have a job and I can really afford to buy just about any model I happen to desire. Good kid.

At the auction, the last three things put up for auction were staff paint jobs, as they usually do, and there was one particular staffer who’s work I admire. I bid $10 on him up from $1 and won his work without a fight. As I paid my $10, I tossed the Flash Git at him, saying “I play Deathskulls”.

(At the end of the day I also purchased the Animosity Orks, so look for them in a painting/modelling project soon!)

Paint Scheme

  • I really have no idea, but I wanted to point out a couple awesome things he did.
  • The squig is my favourite part. Tiger squig! It also has a targeting reticule for an eye. Awesome.
  • The skin is incredibly well highlighted, I can’t even begin to figure out how many layers and what colours he used.
  • All of the metal has been painted it’s primary colour, and then has a little splotch of some metallic colour painted in random locations, where the paint has chipped.
  • He used a similar highlight scheme as the skin (with different colours) to paint the gun-barrel wood grain.