Miranda is out of town this week, so instead of having a nice breakfast with her in the morning, I’ve been painting.
After I finished building him, this guy looked a little silly. I mean, he’s meant to look like a decent size on top of the new carnosaur. But whatever, just because his tail is the same size as his mounts doesn’t mean anything…I built him as Kroq-gar, because if you can put a giant halberd and alien robotic arm on your dinosaur, you should do so.
It turns out that my last cold one hero, I failed at documenting so I had to figure this paint scheme out from the model. Then it turned out that my case was locked and that the keys were over there. So I grabbed another cav from a nearby case and went to town.
I’m using the same base painting technique as the Horror units, because I believe that when I do it right, it will look black, without actually being black. I’m still going to fill the crevasses with orange and yellow, but the rock starts with Sotek Green.
I bought a bunch of new paints to replace drying ones last week, and picked up Steel Legion Drab, which I used on the plants. They look good and dying already!
The cold one has Shadow Grey skin, Ushapti Bone chest, scales and claws. All of the gold is Dwarf Bronze. The chest on my test model goes to something like Fiery Orange and then back to the Bone, but I think I should pull out my BSB to see what I did there – probably not stark orange and bone.
The dude on top is Mephiston Red scales (I love that colour), Codex Grey skin, Ushapti Bone spikes and claws and helmet, and Dwarf Bronze doodads.
I painted the tip of the halberd in Ice Blue, and I’m hoping to have some sort of OSL crackling energy thing going on there. The Hand is Codex Grey. I was thinking of trying a NMM, but we’ll see if I have the patience to figure that out this weekend.
It turns out that despite having at least 3 projects on my desk, and 2 more projects that I brought home from Kipper’s Melee, that all I really want to do is build a new dinosaur riding another dinosaur.
Nick Klose was kind enough to give me the saurus rider from his Troglodon/Chocodile box and I wanted him to be a Cold One Lord. I had originally thought to use the Cavalry legs and his body, but for two problems – he’s a massive, massive lizard though, compared to the rest of the army, and his tail and torso are a single piece.
So I carved out the rocks he was standing on, puttied the hip joint to pull the legs apart a bit and I think he’ll look pretty bad ass!
Trying to re-create the same type of base as on the stegadon. I used the same strange milliput, but I mottled the ground a bit. I didn’t want to carve out the plants on the Cold One base, as they are structural, so I sculpted around them and will paint them brown and dying or similar.
Puttying reminds me that I want to take a class at Adepticon next year. On puttying. So I can stop sucking, because it’s really embarassing that I have this pro-active painting and modelling learning new techniques thing, but my sculpting is limited to “can I green stuff such that the original model is the only thing that is showing”. One day I plan to win the Little Pat Award at a local tournament, so I had better start learning how to cut Forge World models in half and do as good a job at sculpting them back together as he does. >.> (also, more penis’…need to stop playing an asexual army with no gentials on them).
Finished my Rail Crew this weekend! Also, found some time to take some photos and do some editing, a good weekend! Next weekend I’ll be in Nanaimo for Kippers’ Melee, a multi-system event in it’s second year. I’ll be playing 5 games of Fantasy for the first time with the “brand new” Lizardman book, and Malifaux with…
Continue reading Rail Crew – Final!
Malifaux uses a ton of markers. Your models drop Corpse or Scrap Markers when they die, and other models interact with those markers. You can use a (1) action at any point to drop a Scheme Marker. Sometimes these markers are used to score victory points. Sometimes they are just used to make your opponent think you’re trying to score victory points.
I wanted to make some specific to my crew since I had a ton of 30mm bases kicking around and it wasn’t that much extra effort.
These are done with the same basing technique as the models. Instead of drybrushing Fenris Gray over the Rhinox Hide (as I did for the Emberling), I drybrushed Bestial Brown and then Zhamri Desert. I like it a lot more! It left the dirt red, but brought a lot more yellow into it which I feel is a lot more realistic and good looking.
I’m a little concerned about the railway ties right now. I know that I just did Vomit Brown followed by a Devlan Mud wash, and I know that I feel like that isn’t enough paint. But they look ok with just that…
In some places it also just looks like a dirty mess. I’m not a huge fan of that, but it probably looks ok/great to other people. Urge to clean…
The promised Emberling post.
Before starting painting the crew, I wanted to see what others were doing with them. It’s like…if others are painting their orks in green, you don’t want to paint them pink. Unless you’re deliberately doing that. Have to know the rules before you can break them.
I found this guy who had painted two Mei Feng crews and a ton of other Malifaux stuff as well – that thread is an excellent resource! I liked his Emberling and wanted to copy it. I
I’ve been trying to do the lava-look on my stegadon base, but I was never really happy with it. Mr. Wappel has an example of a fantastic looking lava model, as well as a ton of lava bases that he’s painted and I’ve always wanted to get that look right. Here’s what I did on this guy:
- Primed white. This is critical!
- Sunburst Yellow base. I should have done a second or third coat of this, but at the time I thought it was good enough. The yellow really should be pristine when you start.
- Used a foam bit to stiple Blazing Orange around. I was trying to keep it on the raised areas like a drybrush, but to make a random pattern like weathering. I was not entirely successful, mainly because the models arms got in the way of my foam so I had to “get in there”.
- Watered mephiston red lines on the top of the raised edges of the model. This is not nearly as stark as the photo looks.
- Cleaned up some of the edges with watered Sunburst Yellow, the goal was to make it yellow yellow under it all.
- Straight Black on the raised flat parts of the model and the face.
- Mixed Black and Fenris Grey to highlight the black edges.
- Mixed some Rucksack Tan into that to further highlight the face and only the top-most flat parts. The face should be highlighted more than the rest to provide focus.
I’ll try to get a better photo of this guy when I finish the rest of the crew, since this one was rushed.
I made some fantastic progress on the Rail Crew last night.
This is awesome, because this project was looming. LOOMING!!
- Black edges, because it’s classy.
- Rhinox Hide for the dirt. This is waaaay to red. I didn’t realize. It’s really really red.
- Drybrushed a Graveyard Earth over it. Still pretty red.
- Drybrushed a Fenris Grey/P3 Rucksack Tan combo over it, less red, but now to grey. >.<
- Rail lines are Mithril Silver and Badab Black. Based on feedback from my last post, I might try to weather the tracks with some of the Secret Weapon powders, we’ll see how I feel.
- Vomit Brown to start the railway ties.
- This is a pretty bright colour! I wanted a different brown, but this may have been to light.
- I think it worked out ok in the end because of a heavy application of
liquid skill–Devlan Mud.
I suck so hard at skin, but this was ok…for now. P3 Rucksack Tan to start out, then a wash of Dark Flesh which looked really nice, but really red (there’s a theme today). A very careful wash of the Rucksack again left the skin dirty and red, but not red red. More work is required on the skin, but I think in general I’m happy with where it ended.
- Mithril Silver and Badab Black on all of the metal pieces. I wanted a bright metal. The Gamin are going to require some thought on how to make them not be just silver on silver.
- Fenris Gray for clothing that wasn’t the primary piece of cloth.
- Black for Mei’s hair.
- I think Vomit Brown for other hair bits. Mei didn’t look good as a blonde.
- Vomit Brown for tool handles, because it was on the palette and I needed a few more brown items. I get away with this because I’ll end up with different highlights/washes/etc on each of the brown bits. For example, I won’t be Devlan Mudding the tool handles so it’s already different from the railway ties.
And then I started work on finishing a model – the Emberling was calling to me. I’m going to have a full post devoted to him in the next day or two, so even though he’s looking pretty snazzy in that photo, you’ll have to wait!
Tonight marks the first time I’ve applied paint to a model since September 11th. >.> Didn’t realize it had been that long, but the move definitely killed my ability to do this. Add to that the heavy conversion I’ve been working on, and it’s been weird to finally get a chance to put colour on models again!
I was worried about the Malifaux models because they are so much smaller than any of the Warhammer models that I usually work with. Base coat is going pretty well so far though. I asked Miranda what colour I should do their pants, and I really could have predicted that she’d have said red.
So Mephiston Red to start the pants off. Mithril Steel for all of the metal – the Metal Gamin are nice and simple in that regard. Some Rhinox Brown for the dirt.
I want to figure out how to make the railroad ties be a light brown, but burnt and tar-like. The rails might go to silver as well…could be to much silver though.
I’m liking these Friday posts which I’m thinking more as commentary, or a research opportunity. I like writing, so these give me a chance to write even if I have nothing in particular to report about my hobby.
I thought I’d follow-up on my post from last week about the use of cyanoacrylate as a gap filling solution.
Companies have certainly made huge strides in making sure things fit together well. I remember assembling my Ork Battlewagon, with it’s amazing fitting panels, and believing it to be the work of the divine. The Jaws of the Deep models I assembled last month were pretty good as far as fit goes, having a solid post and hole to give the glue more flat surfaces to adhere to. This can be tricky though – if the post and hole end up different sizes, you have a problem again.
But as hobbyists, you and I both know that sometimes the pieces just don’t fit together well. What solutions do we have? A lot!
Damn the research, glue it anyway.
This works well, if you never need to transport or drop your models on the floor. You’ve probably spent most of your life putting glue on a model, putting the other piece on the glue and holding it for a bit. Sometimes it doesn’t work out great, but if you have patience it will always hold eventually. Sometimes you have a point you have to glue, sometimes you have irregular pieces. More glue will work! …for a time. I’ve done this a lot. Let’s call this the “prayer” method, with all of the connotations that go along with that name.
Grab your hobby knife and file.
Certainly an option, you can cut your model up until the two sides fit. If you have steady hands and a good eye for 3 dimensions, you can create your own flat surfaces to ensure that the pieces all fit together. I’m really bad at this, and tend to make the problem much worse.
An idea which I’ve heard about recently is to use something in the middle to allow the glue to adhere to. From the last post, we know that the problem with globs of CA (aside from the fact that the word “globs” just sounds awful), is that it can take longer to cure, sometimes will never fully cure, and when it does cure, it creates a weak crystalline structure in the joint.
So instead, you roll up a batch of putty, put a small amount of glue on one side of the joint, a small amount on the other side of the joint, drop the putty ball in the middle and squish. The glue will adhere to both sides of the putty, the putty is malleable and will change shape to fill the available space and after it dries you have a solid object in between two thin layers of glue. That sounds alright!
Liquid vs Solid Putty
I would use the solid stuff. The liquid feels more like it’s good for filling tiny gaps after you’ve glued. It doesn’t “squish” in the same way, and the squish is important to making sure that you get a filled joint. As well, the liquid is meant to be applied with a paint brush, and you’ve got CA in that mixture and if you do this you’ll never be able to use that paintbrush again!
After the squish, you’ll almost certainly have some putty sticking out of the edges of your joint. You can try to remove it immediately with a putty tool, but that CA will get in your way and all over your tool. It’s still an option, as you can clean that tool easier than the paintbrush! Also, while the putty is still uncured, you risk taking some of your structural putty and moving it out of a useful position or putting holes into it.
You can also leave the putty/CA combo to dry and clean it up afterwards. Most two-part putties can be cut and sanded after curing. Be gentle though – when cured the putty is a flexible substance (so when transported it may flex and bend, rather than snap. This is a good thing!) and if you put to much pressure on it, it can still come apart. If this happens, clean it all up – the putty, the CA, all of it – and try again.
After you’ve cleaned the edges of the joint up, depending on your skill, you may not have left the best looking area. My last attempt was a little ragged. I watered down some of the liquid green stuff and painted it onto the now dry area, which smoothed the whole thing out.
I’m using this method on my plaguebearer conversions, so I’ll see how it turns out. I suggest it in the first place because my hobby hero, Mr. Wappel, recommends it, saying:
Now for the wings. Once again, glue /gs/ glue. First wing in position.
The idea behind this technique is twofold. First, it fills in some of the gaps that can happen in these kids of joints where pins are not always the best idea. It also means that I don’t have to sit there holding it in place as the glue sets! You can see the bead of glue in this image, with the green stuff on the inner wing surface.