It’s been a while since I took this class and wrote these notes. So this should be pretty short, as I flail and desperately trying to figure out what my notes meant. Click the continue to see some cool pictures and laugh at my recall!
Decals: gloss varnish, soak in water, transfer, “microsol” (whatever that is) the edges and then use a mat varnish to cut the gloss. Do this before weathering so your decal (pronounce deh’kal, NOT dee’kal, damn you Americans!) fits with the rest of the model.
Dry pigments: You’ve already seen the results of these on my latest work, but I haven’t actually gone back to see what it looked like at the time. Have some photos!
Probably just a single layer of pigments on the bricks – a yellow earth, I’d bet.
Things have gotten real. A lot of layers of rust orange, rust brown on the grate and a random smattering of colours on the pipe. It was a nice blue…
Now this looks familiar…the pipe has so much crap on it that it looks like my tank! Maybe for dusting, I just want to do one layer…and do it correctly.
On tanks, dust tends to collect at the front. Brush from back to front. For rust, texture, layer the rust colours on by fixing in between colours.
There is a note here about alcohol, probably isopropyl, and I wish I could recall what it was about. I think it’s to do with the next photo. We mixed black with (something) and he showed us this amazing effect. You get some of the mixture on your brush and just dab it at the end of a ridge or groove. The mixture then shoots down the groove and fills all of the area! Instant blacklining!
With the dry pigments, it’s 15 minutes until you can work again and a day until the colours show properly again.
Mud: mix regular dirt with pigments, acrylic medium. Add gloss varnish to make it shiny. Mud is shiny!
Water: hardener plus a resin in same quantities. Some products produce a lot of heat – bad for models! Woodland Scenics/GW water effects are no good for large bodies of water, as they retract 50% when done. Try to bubble over a bit, since it retracts. Try on a test model first – resin is final!
And that’s all I’ve got. Your mission is to decrypt my notes (particularly that bit about the alcohol – that sounded useful) so they are useful. Alternatively, we could go to Mathieu’s website since I think most of his notes are online there.
Thanks for reading!
2 Comments
Duke
April 2, 2012 at 9:41 amYou need to remember that isopropyl alcohol auto-blacklining thing. My Tau need it.
Cool stuff dude. Hopefully I can make it out if the class comes around again.
Craig
April 2, 2012 at 10:40 amI found it on his blog –
“Mig Productions offer an interesting line of fine quality oil paint for modelers. In this case industrial earth was used. Thinned down with turbenthine to have the consistency of a wash every lines, corners, recesses received a dose of the wash. There is nothing more simple. In order to do so simply charge your brush and simply delicately touch one of those line and the capillary action does the rest. This example is best illustrated by video but simply try it yourself and you’ll see how simple it is.”
http://www.akaranseth.com/blog/tutorials/step-by-step-valkyrie-imperial-guard.htm
So the groove thing is done with oil painted heavily thinned with turpentine.